Triana is a traditionally humble neighbourhood on the other side of the Guadalquivir that retains a lot of authentic charm despite recent gentrification. Long famous for its ceramics (check out the Centro Cerámica museum) and flamenco taverns, its riverfront bars are perfect for cooling off on hot summer nights.
Wander around the fantastic food market, pick up some ceramics (Ceramica Triana has a fantastic option), then have lunch somewhere like Mariatrifulca, which is a century old.
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